Welcome
Gerry's 13SecSS site
I first converted my 96 Impala SS from an
OBD2 PCM to an OBD1 PCM in 2001. This was driven by encouragement
from Bryan Herter at PCMFORLESS in the
early summer of 2001. I'm GLAD I did it... I got a nice boost in
rear wheel horsepower and rear wheel torque. Like 16 rwhp and 22 rwt!!
Not bad for a bolt on mod! Below is a short writeup on how this is
done and why.
There was also an issue at the time with
the LT1 tuning software for the '96 PCM, which is OBD2. VIN locking
etc. That was overcome in the OBD2 version of TunerCat about 2003 or
so. The club has access to both versions of TunerCat, OBD1 and
OBD2
Also... in 2004 when I converted my SS to
a T56 six speed, the OBD1 PCM responded better to the changes needed.
However since that time OBD2 PCM tuning issues for a T56 Impala has been
overcome by PCMFORLESS!
- Gerry
96 Impala SS PCM Conversion
Why ? Back in 2001 or so... to get access to
better scan tools and better power... later in 2004 to get to the T56
conversion. Now?... likely not very necessary!!
OBD2 ( p/n 16214399 )
to
OBD1 ( p/n 16188051 )
1) No rewiring of the stock harness or connectors is required.
The extra I/O signals are unused by the 8051 PCM. Leave them alone to allow easy
swaps between the stock '96 PCM and the 8051.
2) The knock sensors in the '96 are 100k ohm while the '94-'95
style are 3.9k ohm. In the 8051 PCM, the knock sensors are in parallel on Blue
pin 22, while in the '96 each comes in its own pin (Blue 21 & 22). Easiest
fix for this is to leave the stock '96 knock sensors in place and modify the
8051 PCM for them. Internal to the 8051 PCM, you'll bridge Blue 21 & 22 together
and then place a 2k ohm resistor from
these pins to ground. This simulates the correct total parallel resistance that
the PCM expects to see in order to pass DTC43 while also keeping the knock
sensors active. You could also just swap over to the '94-'95 style sensors and
simply bridge the pins together while omitting the resistor. Either solution
works fine.
You will also need a tach conversion circuit, since
this PCM, a 1618051, outputs an 8 cylinder tach signal, and the 96 Impala SS
cluster tach REQUIRES a 4 cylinder tach signal. i.e. your 96
tachometer would read 2 times the RPM if you didn't fix this little problem.
(7-19-2011) There USED TO BE 3 sources for tach conversion circuits.
Randy Acorcey, Sank Williams, and
Eric Bryant.
I believe Randy and Eric both sell their circuits publicly. Sank has
reserved his for local club members at the moment, since it takes about 1 to 1
1/2 hours to put one together. Not sure currently if
Sank would be interested in building more, but you could ask.
Wiring this puppy into the PCM is a little more tricky.
It requires you to disable the normal output from the PCM and solder in 4 wires
( in the Sank Williams design ), the only one I have personally installed.
I will took some pictures and get can post more detail shortly.
This page is a work in progress, but a labor to SHARE FREELY the information I
have collected doing this myself. I am updating it for Blair's
efforts on a 32 Ford for a mutual friend of ours.
Efforts for putting an LT1 in a car like the 32 Ford require a
lot less wiring, but patience will reward you. The PCM will
also need some tweaking to get diagnostics turned off, and other tweaks
depending on how many of the original features of this PCM you want to use.
For programming sources I subscribe to either Bryan Herter/Alvin
Andersen of PCMFORLESS, or Ed Hutchings
at Automotive Technology.
For more info, don't hesitate to contact me.
Gerry-
Converting a car to an LT1 ? Try these
links. They are some good reading:
LT1 Swap Pages
LT1 Wiring
Harness
LT1 Wiring Page
GM Port Injection page
Here are
basically all of the connections that need to be made in order to run your LT1.
From the LT1 Swap Site:
LT1 Basic Wiring
with the 95-96 harness
i.e. the minimum
it takes to make it fire up
White plug (10 spaces)
E-pink wire = switched
12v
power
A-red wire = switched
12v
power
Blue plug (10 spaces)
D-white wire = hooks to tachometer
(The following are 2 plugs up from the computer, one 8 pin and one 10 pin)
8 pin connector
B-pink wire = switched
12v
power
10 pin connector
A-pink wire = switched
12v
power
G-pink wire = switched
12v
power
4 pin connector (off of the computer pigtail)
orange = constant
12v power (hot at all times)
red = 12v
to the ignition (switched)
black/white = ground
purple = from starter to ignition ( this is the crank power to turn over the
car)
*The rest should just plug into the accessories, distributor, etc.
*If you want to lockup the convertor using the ecm, you must
hook up the brake signal switch!
*The brake switch will tell the torque
converter when to lock up. It needs a normally "closed circuit", tail lights
need a normally "open circuit"
.
gem
14 October 2014 12:09:36 PM -0400
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