( Its all listing in one place here to help clarify how to put this together
I'll be drawing up a schematic soon, since this makes it a lot easier for me.... )

TRANSGO SHIFT KIT INFO From Sank's conversations with Transgo on 7/3/03

Transmission Parts
(from Transtar Industries
Part Number Description Price (w/o Shipping)

13361E Upper Separator Plate Gasket - 1992-Up $0.75 Sank wants 2

13362E Lower Separator Plate Gasket - 1992-Up $0.75 Sank wants 2

61987B Alunimum Piston (Replaces Plastic one in valve body) - 1993-Up 6.87 I don't need

61961B Valve Body Separator Plate for 1996 to 2001 4L60E (Special Transgo Improved Separator Plate) $13.44


Order BOTH EPC Screens for Sank and me, and the large one small.

From TransGo - 1-626-443-0991

PSK-4L60E-A page 2 step 1 replacement spring set

61987a aluminum piston seal- Sank needs one


If you make the B hole .120 its TOO BIG and will shift 1-2 HARD HARD HARD.

Make hole B .082 and it will be normal.


If A is .93, it will make the 2-3 shift a little harder. .082 is Transgo HP standard for A.


If E is .120, its supposed to be .082 per TransGo
 

ALDL WIRING  ( ALL from Andrew )
----------------

For the OBD-1 12-pin style, the under dash connector has the following pinout: 

(it's also helpful to have 04 = Power Ground and 16 = +12V wired in as well) 

The PCM has the serial data on Blue 30 (D30). This needs to go to "M", "E", or 09, depending on your connector above. It's a tan wire on Andrew's 1994 PCM. 

Mode select needs to go to Blue 20 (D20). It's a White/Black wire on Andrew's 1994

ALDL Ground needs to be tied in to Blue 1 (D1). This ground wire actually winds its way through the chassis to get to the PCM, but it wouldn't hurt to run a jumper wire directly to it. The better your ground, the better your ALDL communications reliability. 

Mode select typically isn't used on our cars for the laptop based scan tools or the LT1_Edit program. It's for diagnostic modes that only the Tech2 will allow. So, it's good to wire up if you think one day you'll hit it with a Tech2, but you don't have to have it wired up. 
 

BENCH HARNESS  ( again, ALL from Andrew )
--------------------

Making up a bench top rig to program PCMs reduces the risk of having a bad car battery kill a PCM.   This has happened to TRIC on more than one occasion while Bryan was down here programming during Dyno Day events.    One car killed TWO PCMs, but Andrew was able to resurrect both with his flash chip programming !!

Andrew's Radio Shack Parts List:
----------------------------------

(1) Crimp type cable mount D-sub, 25 pin Female, 910-4770, $.62 / ea 
(15) Gold Pin Sockets for above plug and for PCM pins, 910-4772, $.09/ea 
(1) Plastic hood for D-sub connector, 910-1536, $.72/ea 
(1) 13.8 VDC Regulated Power Supply, 910-0442, $31.95/ea 
About 8-10 feet of 24 or 26 gauge wire 

You need the voltage higher than 12 volts, but lower than 15. So 13.8 regulated is a good target. 

What you'll need to do is to make a wiring harness using the gold pin sockets. There are four required for the ground (0V) wires, and four required for the hot (+12V) wires.  Andrew does them in a daisy chain - strip the end of the wire, crimp and solder a pin on there, cut the wire a few inches up, stripped *both* pieces of wire, crimped and soldered both of those pieces to another socket, and kept going until I'd covered the 4 pins needed. 

For the ground wire, he made the first jump from D1 (Blue 1) to C32 (Gray 32), about an 8 inch piece of wire. Next, we jump from C32 to A18 (Red 18) using about 4 inches of wire. Next we loop from A18 to A2 (the adjacent pin) with a loop of about 1.5" of wire. From there, we go to the ground terminal of the power supply. 

For the +12V wire, my first terminal is at B15 (Black 15). From there,  jump with about 1.5" of wire over to B31 (the adjacent pin), and from there about 1.5" of wire to B30, and then have about a 4 inch piece of wire jumping to D3 (Blue 3). From D3  jump to the positive terminal of the power supply. 

Now for the ALDL Interface. You need at least two wires - ground (Pin 1 on my converters), and serial data (Pin 5 on my converter, D30 (Blue 30) on the PCM. You may need to provide 12V, but most converters were shipped with port power option enabled, and all desktops should support the port power option. 
 
 
 

Emails between Sank and Andrew here clear up a few other issues:

Sank wrote to Andrew and asked::

 Hi Andrew. I really like your cable for programming a 95 PCM in my
 96 SS.  I e-mailed Bryan Herter about setting up a programming
 bench for my Impala Club (www.gmassie.net/impalaclub) and he
 said to check with you.

 I looked on your website and this is what I figured out:

 ADL Pin 5 -> System Gnd
 ADL Pin 9 -> Serial I/O -> Blue Pin 30

 Blue 1, Grey 32, Red 2, Red 18 -> System Gnd

 Black 15, Black 31 -> +12 VDC

 Bryan told me to add a switched 12V line to the PCM Ignition Pin.
 Here is my problem, both Black 30 and Blue 3 are listed as PCM
 Ignition POS Voltage in my 96 book.  Do I put these two pins to a
 switched +12 VDC?

 If not both, then which one is switched?

 This should work for either a 94/95 or a 96 PCM, right??  If not,
 could you please set me straight?  I have figured out the tach
 circuit so that a 94/95 PCM will work in a 96.  This will help me set
 them up for other club members so that I won't have to constantly
 plug them in and out of my car.  We also have a 96 LT1 Cable so I
 want to be able to test and programm 96 PCM's with this set up.  I
 will parallel the ADL signals to a 9 Pin D connector so that we can
 connect the LT1 cable.

 Any and all help will be appreciated.  Thanks for your time as I
 know that you are very busy!

 ....  F. M. 'Sank' Williams

And here is Andrew's response
 

Date sent:              Fri, 13 Sep 2002 06:15:54 -0500
From:                 Andrew K. Mattei
To:                     Sank Williams
Subject:              Re: Cable Harness

Oh, I forgot to respond. Sorry about that!

I run Blue 3 as a fixed +12V, and Black 30 as my 'switched' line.
However, on an OBDI PCM, you do not need to worry about the 
switched
ignition. It's only the OBDII PCMs that are particular about being
switched on/off by the ignition. ("hey, what's that smell? OMG, that's
the power supply that's powering that OBDII PCM!" :p ). So, if you're
doing an OBDII PCM, you MUST do the ignition switch on black 30, but
don't worry about blue 3. I've done plenty of both OBDI and OBDII 
PCMs
on my bench, and have never switched blue 3.

Hope this helps!

Andrew
 

THANKS ANDREW AND SANK FOR CLEARING UP SOME OF THE MUD.....!!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

gem 03/31/03